Excuse, Tutka!.
Excuse, Tutka!.
Evening. Warm and syro. I eat pineapple, watering with sandal juice.
- Tuk-tuk? - The motorcyclist speaks to me, having braked at a roadside. I
I swing a head: "Nou". But it does not upset him.
- Boom-boom? - He asks. Also shows so much fingers, in
How much dollars to me it will manage. I again swing a head.
The man shows on a finger less.
It goes for me along sidewalk, cleaning on a finger through everyone
Twenty metres. While at last I do not throw a phrase suitable in any
To world point for all occasions: "Russo zhurnalisto obliko morale.
Fershtejn? "It fershtejn me it is instant. Also goes further on the
Taxi - a jalopy which also is "tuk-tuk". To search for another,
Which will want "boom-boom" with the local beauty...
... It was then. Somewhere in Vietnam. Or, can, in Laos.
But it is exact not in Thailand. And at first I have arrived to Hanoi. In
Plane "п п -86" and in wet trousers.
Passers-by in streets affably smiled, sympathising, that I
It is a little nedoterpel. And I in the answer smiled - will not become
To explain to everyone, that neighbours-passengers, having touched whisky from duty
free, have overturned on me a package of tomato juice.
No, I on them not in insult.
Exactly week I knew nothing about Russia. Did not look ours
News, did not read newspapers. And if such happiness is though somehow
I am connected with quantity of the juice spilt on me, publicly
Has asked to throw readers me tomatoes.
Operation "Y" and other lectures SHurika.
The first drink of air at the airport of Hanoi seems penultimate.
Pours as from a bucket, and it is stuffy, as in Russian bath.
- At us the season of rains has begun, - speaks in the cleanest Russian
The girl-Vietnamese. Also smiles. - my name is... I yours
The translator.
I ask again her name some times. The girl writes me it on
To cut-away. If to read under letters, it turns out Nga. But it not absolutely
Our sound "n", not absolutely "g" and slightly not "and". I try
To utter. It turns out, it is visible, so-so.
In a hotel hall where I should live four days,
Nga acquaints me with the friends, students of faculty
Foreign trade of the Hanoi university. One of the few
Places where still study Russian. Them have employed for visitors - delegations
Moscow led by vice-mayor Shantsevym from which I have arrived in
Hanoi.
- Nga in a translation into Russian - the Swan, - speaks Sasha, a press
The-attache of our embassy. - and language very difficult. At everyone
Vowel six different tones. If you will mix, sense absolutely
Another. You will want to tell, for example, "liked", and leaves
"Cow".
At me the habit - in the new country to learn at once some words,
Necessary minimum for dialogue.
- Well, - smiles Nga, - write down. "Yes" is "y".
No"... Too"y". Only"yes"it is necessary to speak with intonation
Downwards, and "is not present" - on the contrary, above. And if you will tell "yy" is will be
To mean "yes is not present". That is "I do not want, but actually I want".
Clearly?
- Do not suffer, - advises Sasha. - Learn two words: "zjam zja" -
"Reduce the price". To bargain in souvenir benches, it
Will suffice.
And Murku for a dinner mogesh?
If to take third of Moscow and to press three times, till the sizes
One district, is and there will be Hanoi. Here ever less.
At home, people, roads. Nga, graceful, as a Japanese figurine,
Puts me to itself for a back on a motorcycle and leaves on the teeming
People street.
- What do you wish to look in Hanoi?
- All.
- Keep more strong and be afraid of nothing...
Not to be afraid, better to close an eye. Our representation about
Vietnam as about the country of bicycles - an old fairy tale. Vietnam -
The country of bikers. Vietnameses have grown rich and have changed on the small
Motorcycles which at us name mopeds. Basically it
"Hondy" and the Chinese fakes under "Hondu". Mopeds are in Hanoi
Almost at all. They rush a continuous stream, overtaking each other
And surrounding cars. It is not enough cars, the government takes for them
Import the mad customs duties. The authorities are afraid: even if everyone
The tenth of three millions hanojtsev will sit down for a wheel, here will be
Eternal stoppers. Besides it is necessary to observe rules, which
Simply does not exist.
- Frenchmen have put us traffic lights. The humanitarian help, yes? And
What for? - Complains Nga. - All the same nobody obeys them.
Do not obey - it is softly told. At crossroads one stream
Mopeds simply filters through another. Approximately as threads in
Fabrics. And - any failure...
- I do not like this street, - screws up the face Nga when we go on
To city suburb. - Here eat dogs and trade in the dog meat.
- They are poor people, they have nothing to eat more?
- No, simply tradition. But I do not eat dogs, do not think. Those who
Eats them, - uneducated, wild people.
Nga says, that last years dogs and cats in Vietnam
Eat ever less. And nevertheless in streets it is not enough dogs. And house cats
Owners... Hold on privjazi. With the black cat Murzikom living
At the Russian embassy, there was such history. It was lost.
And a week later Vietnameses have brought it to collars of ours
Diplomatic mission. Whence have learnt, that ours (on eyes,
Probably?) so anybody also has not understood. And have brought because Murzik
Has publicly deprived of virginity of several master's cats,
Adhered at thresholds. Those not especially resisted. And Murzik did
Kind business - gave happiness to simple Vietnameses. On the national
poverjam that the life has gone right, it is necessary to eat three black cats.
Where them in Hanoi you will find so much? Here our cat also tried.
As I in Hanoi Alsu searched.
What is the Vietnamese happiness - certainly, everyone understands on
To the-. But for the majority it is own house. Than in him of floors
It is more, the better. High-rise buildings of type Moscow are not present in general.
How much I neither went and nor went across Hanoi, everywhere saw one and that
- narrow facades of houses with shop on the ground floor and apartments
Numerous relatives from above. At home narrow and long, leaving on
10, and even 20 metres deep into. It because the most expensive -
The piece of the earth leaving on street. Than it is wider and than tsentralnee
The street, that goes trade more successfully, those can hand over the first more expensively
Floor to any firm.
Myth about poor Vietnameses - same ancient, as about bicycles.
The average income on a family in Hanoi 200 dollars and above.
However, in a family can be and to eight persons. But meal
So cheap, and people are so unpretentious in food, that on
"Proforage" of the person in day leaves a maximum dollar.
- At us nobody starves. And all do business, - with pride
Member of the Komsomol Nga speaks. - Our party is business welcomes.
In the shop trading in compact discs where we have glanced
In the evening of next day, abundance pohleshche, than on the Top crust.
Among the western and Vietnamese music vainly I try to find though
Something Russian. At last the owner pulls out from the top shelf
The collection: "Katjusha", "evenings Situated near Moscow"...
- Whether and is, - I ask, - at you... Alsu?
The owner reflects on a share of second and nods.
- Now is not present, - translates Nga. - He asks, that we have come
Tomorrow. Till the morning it will necessarily make...
Disks stamp somewhere nearby. And sell so: the buyer
Chooses on a show-window, that it is necessary to it, the seller starts a hand in
The bag, gets therefrom kompakt, checks, whether that, puts in
Case - also it is ready. Quality rubbish, but after all and the price - dollar.
The special place on a show-window is taken away to patriotic songs.
Disks with portraits of the great leader of companion Ho Shi the Mine and
Sickles - hammers suffice on a level with Britni Spirs. No, today
Even it is hardly better - tomorrow in Vietnam the biggest after New
Year a holiday, birthday of grandfather Ho. If it was live, to it
Would knock"111.
But I also have not told, that the grandfather has died. It, as Lenin, eternally
The live.
Sexy grand daughters of grandfather Ho.
Despite a downpour, a stream of Vietnameses in mausoleum Ho SHi the Mine,
Constructed by the Soviet friends in the seventies, neskonchaem. On
Face Nga the solemn flush acts.
- All of us very much like grandfather Ho. It was very good
The person, as Lenin... On its precepts we and now live.
I do not know precisely, that their leader bequeathed to Vietnameses, but I believe
To fair eyes Nga in which there is no also an irony shade...
- Massage, massage... - the charming Vietnamese smiles,
Having seized to me in shorts on a sea resort Ha Long where have brought
Us companions from the Hanoi mayoralty. A resort smart, more abruptly ours
Sochi. Thousand tourists, shops and prostitutes. Absolutely
With legal massage salons the evening quay dazzles.
Quotations superhumane: Thai massage - five dollars,
"Boom-boom" (simple Russian word "sex" for some reason here not in
Honour) - five-ten more in an hour as you will agree.
Probably, it also is socialism with a human face, which
We and have not managed to construct.
- Yes communism it! Communism! - someone corrects me from
The Moscow officials, clicking flashlight. I do not know. It, of course,
More visibly...
... If people died only of modesty, I would live long.
And in that, as to women, in general is useless to argue: at
Me ideal taste. And so, Vietnameses, believe to the old man
Muzhdabaevu, are improbably beautiful. Since special, medno -
Olive shade of a skin, fragile coat hanger, a fine-moulded breast and
Finishing thin, correct fingers of feet. Probably, they it is bad
Are suitable for a throwing of kernels and basketball, but it is necessary to you? To that
Vietnameses are very smiling and surprisingly clean. And if to
To all to it to add the cat's language (I mean speech sounding, and
Not of what you have thought) it is possible to look for an ideal of the woman on
East coast of Indochina.
Russian do not go.
In Vietnam few Russian tourists. Here in general there are not enough Russian.
As a matter of fact, anybody is not present, except builders of hydroelectric power stations
And oil platforms. This only thing, than we can help
To the Vietnamese economy, which already throughout 15 years (reform
Here have begun in 1986) unlike ours steadily grows. It
Has pulled out the country from hunger, ponastroila perfect roads,
Modern factories (here collect even "Mercedes" and "BMW"), not
Speaking about millions tons of coffee, fruit and rice, on manufacture
Which Vietnam strongly holds the second place in the world.
Country gross national product grows annually for 10-12 percent, the industry
- On 15-16, export - on all 17. On the Vietnamese market,
Parting forcibly each other, Frenchmen, Chineses, Germans climb,
Australians, Dutches...
And Russian are not present. And Vietnameses on us miss.
People of advanced age know Russian songs. Businessmen of years
Forty suffice SHantseva for a sleeve and tell, how they would like
To have with us the general business. And it, too, probably, slightly stunned
From this country, promises to tell to businessmen in Russia, as
It is favourable to build here factories and factories, to buy coffee, to erect
Hotels...
... We with Sashej from embassy and his wife go to the centre of Hanoi,
To visit local jazz club. On a way at us gasoline comes to an end.
For a midnight. But the taxi driver on abrupt "Tojote", having learnt, that we
Russian, the full canister, and the owner of club free of charge brings
Specially for us opens kitchen and brings the best dishes.
- Here two "gods" now - Ho SHi Mines and the dollar, - speaks
Sasha, sipping Vietnamese "Hajneken". - Already it is more
Dollar...
Years through ten Vietnam becomes one more "Asian
Dragon ". And from former friendship with the USSR there will be one names. In Hanoi
There is a maternity home of name Tereshkovoj, in the sea near to Ha Long -
Titov's "presented" Ho SHi Minom to our cosmonaut the island
During joint walk on a boat. By the way, having learnt that
Local mass-media have returned to Russia to an old Soviet hymn,
Rejoiced week. And visitors from Moscow have asked to bring to Hanoi
Our cinema most popular here - "Imperceptible avengers"...
... Vietnam is excused with me as sadly, as well as met, -
Tropical downpour. The sky does not cry - from what?
Simply waters rice fields which give on two crops in
Year.
- In village, in a solitude, to Laos, - sees off me nachitavshajasja
Russian classics Nga.
The green sea of jungle under a plane wing sings something
narkomanskoe. From "Agatha Christie" or Zemfiry. I treat over "Gold
Triangle "- sowed opijnym a poppy heart of Indochina.
I draw the native land.
The smell in a night disco on quay of Mekong does not call
Doubts: is. Does not pass also two minutes, as smiling
The waitress offers "jambs" on a tray. A post of police at an input
Protects narkomanskie glitches. A grass for Laos - something like
Ice-cream. It is not forbidden even to children. Here opium - actually
Problem.
In comparison with 80-million Vietnam here it is almost empty -
Only five millions. In capital, Vientiane, with all
Suburbs - thousand six hundred. Pair of direct streets along coast
The great river - here and all lay-out. Other city shares on
Villages. And other Laos - on makovye grounds. The government
Never supervised all territory of the country. However,
The Communist Party perfectly gets on with a drug mafia. Judging by a kind of the local
Leaders and to their foreign cars, with them share fairly.
To a meeting of Russian visitors at the mayoralty - a pioneer ruler. Children in
Red ties, a bronze bust of companion Kejsona Fomvihana
(Local Lenin)...
...- Boom-boom? - The security guard shouts to me at an exit from cafe
Motorcycle parking. Also brings the nice boy of years 13.
The boy smiles and hides eyes.
Loudly I send a companion with its "pioneer" on a horse-radish. And new
The acquaintance, from local, studying in Moscow, laughs: "At us я e es.
Polythis? Not. Polythis not to prevent to live to foreigners ".
I go to hotel with feeling of the executed humanitarian mission:
A minute ago I have made pleasant to the prostitute...
... It touches me for a shoulder and rejoices, as if has met
The old friend. In a second the girl by name of Tuta already sits for
My table also mutters in quite good English.
- Rush? Here?
- It is such country. Moscow, andestend?
- About, Moscow, ah nou, ah nou!
Tuta already met here one guy from Moscow. She knows -
It is such city in America. I try to explain, that Moscow not
Only in America, what is it capital the biggest in the world of the country,
Which Rush. Tuta sucks at me a cocktail and shakes a head -
Does not believe, that there is such country, that I not the American.
Patriotism - the strong feeling after alcoholic
Intoxications. I do not drink, therefore at me the strongest. I take
Napkin and the handle also I draw, as I can, a world map. The sizes Rushs,
Even slightly exaggerated by me on a napkin, plunge Tutu in
Thoughtfulness.
- Jes, veri big, rili...
Tuta it is live is interested, how much I am ready to pay to it.
Promises the discount, says, that I have liked it. From forty
Dollars for a night the price reaches twenty. I say, that is ready
To pay to it beer. For simple so. It Tutu pleases, but is not strong.
Similar, I was last hope. Germans behind the next table
Have got drunk cheap beer as pigs.
Tuta takes away a napkin with a map with itself - to learn geography, and
On another diligently deduces figures. It is its number mobile.
She kisses me on an ear and says, that if in Rush a lot of such,
As I, good guys, let they will call it and come. And me
Personally as a sign of a special arrangement suggests to marry.
- Sorri, ajm merrid, - I speak. Tuta is upset. On it
It is visible to sad eyes: to leave for the European - its big dream...
... Mekong Is wonderful at silent weather. I very much wished to hand over
The air ticket to Bangkok. And to remain in Vientiane weeks on two.
To go for a drive on tuk-tukah. To drink beer in small colonial cafe
Under canopies from a bamboo. I-ni-o-chem-ne-du-mat...
Laos - one of the poorest countries of the world. An ideal resort for
The most greedy tourists. Here it is possible to find number in hotel for two
Dollar to drink beer for half-dollar litre. And I have already told about girls.
Besides, that they are not similar to Vietnameses. At them more
Swarty skin, wide cheekbones, plus all of them snub-nosed. But thus
Too very beautiful. Also go on streets almost naked - a climate and
Local customs have...
... Having turned for a corner from cafe, I feel steps behind the back. "The sir,
The sir! "- the guy in a white shirt shouts. And, it is the waiter. It long
Apologises and stretches mjatye denominations. Two thousand kipov (hardly
More than five roubles) which I have left to it on tea. "Nou, nou", -
He murmurs. I hardly push tyshchu kipov to it into the breast
Pocket. And he still for a long time whispers something to me following and bows.
Mekong, especially is wonderful at night. If not palm trees, all - as
Somewhere in village on Istra. Drivers tuk-tukov are similar on
Situated near Moscow hloptsev, hurrying to club on dances.
- Boom-boom? Boom-boom? Boom-boom?. - they stick. To them has not sufficed
Metres thirty five - forty that I have agreed.
In hotel for a long time has ceased evening of Russian-Laotian friendship, where
SHantsev sang, and the others drank, washing the contract on building
In Vientiane the first trolleybus line. Whether was at whom then
Night of Russian-Laotian love, I do not know it. In the plane on
Ways to Thailand did not speak anything about sex. As if were afraid
To maleficiate.
Me caressed for Putin.
In Bangkok - plus thirty eight in a shade. Exactly as much at
Me from the solar burn received in Laos.
"You give debauchery!" - it is written on the raised persons of fellow travellers.
We rush on highway in the centre of a megacity which it is easy
Will outdo Moscow as regards roads and modern architecture.
We disperse who where. They are attracted with ranks of girls lengthways
Show-windows and an English word "pussy", written on shone boards
And on "menu" in hands of the boys inviting tourists in sex show.
"Pussy smoke cigarettes.
Pussy open bottle.
Pussy cut banana... "Practically all can young tajki the
pussy. At us many a head are able less...
The temperature rises still above. Three absolutely naked tajki
Surround me, as the dress of the Moscow militia. But drag not in
Site, and in a soft armchair. One masses feet, another - a back,
The third walks all also something mutters in an ear. Asks, whence
I.
- About! Moskou! Putin!!! - she shouts at all hall. So it is loud,
That prevents to show to girls on a scene the skill.
Girls around wave handles: "Pu-oozes! Pu-oozes! Hellou!" - I not
Putin, - I shout through music and shchebetanie taek. - But I can
To send regards...
Me drag in a massage office literally. If not
Compatriots, would carry away - I any more in forces
To resist.
Compatriots show on hours: soon in the airport. No,
Four hours per Bangkok is the same what to come on football
Minutes on three to look warm-up. And absolutely it is terrible to think,
That the whole week the best Moscow yard keepers here did,
Sent to Thailand under the mayoralty permit.
Jury Mihalych is impossible so with people how they then will live?.
... "Sheremetyevo-2". Merznu, as the fool, in shorts. Calls whose
Cellular telephone. There is, I, simply I have forgotten, as it
Calls. He/she is the friend from job.
- How here at you in Russia? I know nothing...
The friend dictates me the latest news. It appears, in the country
Flooding... It appears, congress of Union of Right Forces has selected the chairman of party
Boris Nemtsov...
Who such Nemtsov? I do not remember. I fall asleep in the car...
... Evening. Syro and it is cold. It goes on the Garden ring and something
Drips on boots. It sljuni. Or, maybe, tears.
He/she is my friend, the fan of paid love to whom I have told about
The countries where it is a lot of bananas and charming brunettes, for love
Which almost it is necessary to pay nothing.
- How much-how many? - He asks again at next "mamki"
The filthy maidens built before it in a lane. - yes for
Hundred dollars I in Laos...
- Where? - Mummy does not understand.
- In Karaganda, - the friend responds. Also walks further.
It in general has strongly changed for last days. Is silent much,
Much works, eats a little and drinks exclusively on a freebie.
He does not speak anything to me. But I think, have already started to collect on
Tickets.
Ajder Muzhdabaev.
<$>
//* an information Source: the Moscow member of the Komsomol, 3.06.01
//* Reg. Nom. - 1110600032.08-------------------------------------------
|
